Monday, June 27, 2011

Great News About Helmets at Competitions Plus Addressing Blood in the Mouth!

FEI Dressage Committee Considers Protective Headgear, Blood Rule Changes

June 23, 2011

Lauren Sammis on Sagacioius HF
The 2007 PanAm Games Gold Medal team of Lauren Sammis and Sagacious HF; Sammis is pictured wearing a helmet during grand-prix competition. (Photo courtesy of Hyperion Farms and Al Guden)

Don't look for helmets at the FEI World Cup or World Equestrian Games dressage events quite yet, but a discussion of a possible rule change at the Dressage Committee’s meeting earlier this month in Paris considered some regulations for head protection. Also on the discussion list: blood in the mouths of competition horses.

As always, rule revisions will be presented for National Federation approval at the FEI General Assembly in November for implementation on 1 January 2012.

Protective headgear

Background: The FEI Medical Committee has recommended making protective headgear mandatory across all disciplines when riding at show grounds outside competition arenas.

At its meeting in Paris, the Dressage Committee took on the subject. They discussed making protective headgear mandatory everywhere on the showgrounds except during competition and warm-up prior to competition. The committee discussed mandatory helmets for athletes under 18 and in Young Horse classes where they would be required everywhere, including during the test.

Note: I worried about the wording of this press release and asked my media contact at the FEI for some help in sorting out what this might mean. Malina Gueorguiev, Manager of FEI Press Relations in Lausanne, Switzerland, clarified that riders who are in competition attire before their classes would not be required to wear helmets in warmup or in the competition arena but other riders, dressed in non-competition attire, would be required to wear a helmet when mounted in warmup arenas.

A draft rule is being prepared for the next committee meeting on 2 August. This would then go forward to the General Assembly for approval and implementation on 1 January 2012.

Blood in the arena

Who could ever forget Parzival’s disqualification from the 2010 Alltech World Equestrian Games? Dutch team member Adelinde Cornelissen was stopped during her test when a tinge of blood was noticed in her horse’s mouth. Months later, it was discovered that specific language about blood in the mouth didn’t exist in the dressage rules.

At Paris, the Dressage Committee proposed a new blood rule explicitly stating that the test would be stopped if blood appears anywhere on the horse.

A press release from the FEI describes the possible new rule in this way:

“At top level events (Olympic Games, Championships and Finals for seniors), where FEI vets will be present at the warm-up arena, they would examine the horse and the test would resume if bleeding from minor injuries had stopped.

“If the bleeding had not stopped, the horse would be eliminated. Where vets are not present to examine the horse, bleeding would result in immediate elimination.”

The FEI’s Vet Committee and Legal Department are considering the proposal for this rule, which would sit in Article 430.7.1. or Article 440 of the Rules for Dressage Events.

by Fran Jurga
© The Jurga Report at

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Lesson today!

I am super excited about my lesson today with our instructor, Debbie Gray :) Last Thursday we had an absolutely lovely right lead canter, and I'm hoping that we'll be able to improve upon that today. The Go!-boy also has a visit with the chiropractor right after his lesson, so maybe we'll be able to figure out this cross canter issue after all! He's already improving after having his feet fixed with some wedges in the back, so maybe with some extra time and good care, we'll be show ready and ready to advance up the levels in no time!

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Great Article, worth a read

Observations of the Dead Horse Guy

By David Heidt

Since 2003, I have operated a removal and burial service for large animals, mostly horses, in the southern Willamette Valley. During this time I have helped people with nearly 1000 horses. We keep a record of each horse with their name, age, breed, sex, and how or why they died if it is known. After recently reviewing our records I would like to share some thoughts on how you might keep your equine friend around a little bit longer, or at least save yourself some stress and vet bills.

Thirty-five percent of the horses lived to at least 25 years of age; they died naturally or were euthanized because of disease or old age. In other words this means that if you are an average horse owner your horse has a one in three chance of living to the ripe old age of 25. One Chincoteague pony was documented to be 47-years-old! In my opinion these are the fortunate ones.

Twenty-five percent of the horses under 25-years-old died of colic or had colic-like symptoms. I have no medical training so my percentage is based on veterinary diagnosis or the owner's observations.

Most horses recover from colic with prompt treatment, but obviously some don’t. I have noticed that certain times of the year I see more horses dying from colic. Spring seems to be pretty tough on horses. I think the warm days and cold nights along with the lush new growth of grass sometimes triggers an impaction. Some people don't realize that this can also happen in the fall when early rain again causes the grass to grow lush and is accompanied by wide temperature swings. A 50 degree daily temperature swing is hard on some horses. I have picked up several horses that have pigged out on fresh grass clippings some-well meaning soul decided to feed them.

I know some of you are saying, “duh,” but it happens every spring. In winter there are horses that colic because of dehydration. Does drinking ice-cold water ever hurt your teeth? Supplying warm water in the winter may save your old boy. In the summer months I look at our water trough and think, “how thirsty would I have to be to drink that?” If the answer is “really thirsty,” then I clean the trough. If something just doesn't seem right when you look at your horse then take some notes: is he breathing fast? Is he sweaty or in pain? Is his belly sucked up? Is he laying down a lot or biting at his side? If the answer to any of these is yes, then call your vet and ask for advice. I've never heard of a vet refusing service in an emergency, but I know that I am much more willing to help people if they don't owe me money, so please try to keep your account current. We always have some Banamine on hand that we can give them while the vet is in route if he or she advises it. Finally, although it is just an observation, I have noticed that many horses that die of colic are very overweight, so if your horses' butt looks fat to you, pay attention. There are many potential causes for colic, please educate yourself on them.

The rest of this article is about accidents. About 10% of the horses under 25 that I have picked up have died from accidents. Many accidents are not preventable, such as a frisky horse kicking up its heels only to come down in a gopher hole and break its leg. A stray kick by a playful pasture mate placed in exactly the right (wrong) place can shatter a knee or tear ligaments. This is heartbreaking, but part of life with horses.

Our horses are never tied up unless I am confident in their training to give to pressure, and I almost always use a Blocker tie ring when I do tie them. I have picked up several horses with broken necks because they pulled back so hard that they either broke the equipment and flipped over backwards or the equipment held, but caused irreparable damage to their neck. Don't ever tie your horse to a stall door, gate, fence board, or anything that can move if they pull back. The movement may spook them and the next thing you know your horse is being "chased" through the barn by a board or stall door. Believe me; I've seen the results.

Walking the horse pasture to check for dangers is a habit I try to make routine. After a heavy rain is a good time to check for holes. I have seen broken legs with jagged bone shards sticking out as a result of a horse running through the field and stepping in a hole. I remember one whose hind leg went down about 2 feet into a hole and as he tried to get up he flipped over sideways and dislocated his hip. How does a hole suddenly appear in your pasture? Many years ago most of the pastures in western Oregon were forest land. After the trees were logged, the land was cleared and leveled, but during this process some of the stumps and logs were buried. As the wood rots, rainwater follows these tunnels and makes them larger. Eventually the ground caves in which sometimes results in a shallow depression, but other times it looks like a post hole. We had a small hole appear that took an entire tractor bucket of gravel to fill - one shovel full at a time! Gravel is better than dirt for filling holes, especially if they are full of water.

I never ignore anything that poses an entanglement threat. This includes, but is not limited to twine, wire, rope, clothes line, fencing, and cable. Try taking a piece of twine and wrapping it tightly around your arm just below the elbow and then pull on it. If you were to pull hard enough it would cut through your arm and peel your flesh away leaving only the bone. The vet calls this “de-gloving” and I have seen it more than once on a horse’s leg. I hope you never see it.

If your horse gets out, wanders onto the road, and gets hit by a car, you may be found negligent and therefore responsible for any damages and injuries. I have been called to the aftermath of three auto-horse accidents and can say that a horse has an incredible amount of blood which makes for a gruesome sight. Thankfully no people were seriously injured in those particular collisions, although the vehicles sustained major damage.

Keeping fences safely maintained is another priority. I don’t know if there really is such a thing as a horse-safe fence, but I do know that loose fences, leaning fences, and those overgrown with berry vines or weeds are all hazardous to horses for multiple obvious reasons.

If you have a fence with loose wire and leaning metal t-posts please fix it today. On three occasions I have picked up horses that were impaled and eviscerated when they became entangled, chased, or were spooked near a leaning t-post. The horse does not just lie down and die quietly; it is an awful sight to see. We have t-posts on our property, and I do not believe they are inherently dangerous if they are property maintained. I have never picked up a horse from a fence accident where the fences were well maintained with a visual barrier such as white electric tape at chest height.

I have picked up several horses as a result of blood poisoning caused by an abscess or a puncture wound. Nails sticking out of boards, fence posts, or the side of the barn can cause this. If promptly treated they almost always get better. We are fortunate to have some wonderful, dedicated veterinarians here so when you are in doubt, call them out!

Don't leave loose equipment on your horse that should be snug. I have seen several horses become entangled in turn-out blankets that became loose. They freaked out, mortally injuring themselves. If you ride western and use a back cinch, keep it snug. A loose back cinch not only looks dorky, it isn't doing its job and it is dangerous. Imagine you are walking down a trail, your horse steps on a short, stout branch with his front foot and the branch kicks up and goes between the cinch and his belly. He is startled so he jumps which causes the branch to impale him and start stirring up his insides. I've only seen this once, but that was enough.

One parting piece of advice: if you are lounging your young horse while riding a 4-wheeler, stay very alert! She might get scared and jump in front of you. If you don't stop fast enough you might hit her front leg and break it. Yes, sadly, this really happened.

In the past eight years I have seen more tears and been around more grieving people than I thought I would ever see in a lifetime. If you read this and follow some of these suggestions you will never know if they saved you and your horse some pain, but if you don’t bother to follow this advice and your horse has one of these "accidents" you can probably add the guilt of knowing that you knew better to your grief and tears. If by writing this I help one young filly to become an old grey mare, it was worth my time.

Friday, June 24, 2011

Great lesson!

Kimberly and I each had a great lesson with my fabulous instructor, Debbie Gray, yesterday! My Go!-boy, Ivan, is really starting to come together!!! We managed to get a beautiful right lead canter, whereas before we couldn't canter under saddle without craploads of problems!

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

The Horse | Emergency Shoe Removal for Horses

The Horse | Emergency Shoe Removal for Horses

Emergency Shoe Removal for Horses

by: Pat Raia
August 01 2010, Article # 17674

Donald Brockman, DVM, can't count the number of times he's been flagged down by fellow trail riders whose horses' shoes have been partially separated from their hooves. A nearly lost shoe should stop a rider cold because it can expose horses to foot injuries ranging from nail punctures to sole bruising. Therefore, it is critical to remove a nearly lost shoe completely as soon as possible.

"It's one thing if you know there's a farrier on the trail somewhere, but that's not always the case," says Brockman, who made his living as a farrier before earning his veterinary degree. "People should know how to pull a shoe in an emergency situation."

Situations that require emergency shoe removal can occur on and off the trail at any time, says Brockman. Mud, deep snow, or a tiny pebble can all loosen and partially remove a shoe anywhere a horse travels. Horses that spend the majority of their time in the pasture or that have been improperly shod are most susceptible to partially lost shoes, according to Brockman.

"For example, some horses are shod with front feet long in the toe and low in the heel," he says. Over time, that horse's movement will put enough pressure on the (toe of the) shoe to push it from the front backward toward the heel. When that happens the horse is likely to overstep--that is, the back foot will step on the sliding shoe. Consistent overstepping will loosen a shoe, causing it to spin out of position.

This can also occur in horses that overreach when they perform their gaits.

Steve Sullivan, a farrier based out of Monticello, Ky., notes, "Tennessee Walking Horses are especially vulnerable because their gaits are such that their hind feet actually step into their front footprints. So their chances of stepping on the back of that front shoe are increased." Many other breeds are just as susceptible.

Brockman says other types of improper shoeing also can increase a horse's risk of partially losing a shoe.

"Hooves that are not filed flat and are lower on the inside than on the outside will cause misalignment of the legs and bring the horse's front or back feet too close together," he says. "That will also cause a horse to step on and eventually loosen a shoe."

Beyond the possibility of hoof wall damage, a shoe that completely separates from a horse's hoof poses little threat to foot health. That's because hoof material lost along with the shoe will regenerate over time. However, horses' feet are at risk for more serious damage when a shoe is partially lost and shifted out of its correct position. "The true emergency is when a horse had a spun or partially removed shoe and the nails are out of position," Brockman says.

"Horses can suffer bruised soles and run the risk of puncture wounds from nails still attached to a partially lost shoe," Sullivan adds. Puncture wounds expose horses to bacterial infections. And abscesses that develop as a result of such infections require immediate veterinary care.

Shoe Removal Steps

It's impossible to ensure a horse will never partially lose a shoe, so it's critical an owner knows how to remove the loose shoe safely. Here's how to do it:

Gather the Tools Both Sullivan and Brockman recommend an owner use a farrier's rasp and a pair of shoe pull-offs or long-handled nippers to remove the shoe. Both the nippers and shoe pull-offs can also be used to trim damaged hoof material.

"The shoe pullers are not as sharp as the nippers, but they can be used to trim hoof materials if hooves are cracked as a result of the loose shoe, or if a piece of hoof material is sticking up from the hoof wall," says Brockman.

Place the assembled tools on the ground within easy reach.

Position the Horse If a shoe is partially lost during a trail ride, Brockman recommends the rider dismount and walk the horse back to the trailer before trying to remove the shoe.

"The horse will be out of balance, so you want to get off the horse and walk back. At a slow walk, you have better control of the horse and the path the horse is traveling," he says.

If the situation occurs at home, Sullivan recommends you bring the horse into a stall or wherever he will comfortably stand for shoe removal.

"You want the horse to feel comfortable while you remove the shoe," he says. "A horse may be more comfortable in a stall where there are fewer distractions. Removing the shoe in a stall will also give you better control of the horse's movements. The horse is less likely to get away from you."

Position Yourself Owners who regularly clean their horses' feet understand that their position relative to the hind feet is key to avoid injury if a horse kicks. So, to remove a shoe on a hind limb, begin the process by standing beside your horse's hip so you and your horse are both facing the same direction and your back is to the horse's rump. Pick up the horse's foot and place it on your inside thigh.

To prepare to remove a front shoe, stand beside the horse's shoulder so you and the animal are facing the same direction and your back is to the horse's rump. Pick up the horse's foot and place it on your inside thigh. This position optimizes access to the outer hoof wall for the next step.

File to "Thin" the Clinches Once the foot is in position, use the farrier's rasp to file down or "thin" the clinches (pieces of horseshoe nails left after farriers clinch and clip the nails when setting shoes).

"Use the smoother (finer-gauge) side of the rasp," Sullivan says. "The side that is rough will catch on the clinches, not file them down."

Use firm, light strokes to file the clinches smooth, either one-by-one or by applying the rasp from one side of the hoof to the other in a single motion. Be patient, and apply only light, consistent pressure. Too much pressure can remove hoof material--literally file a hole in the hoof--and damage the hoof wall.

Clinches can also be removed using nippers. Place the nippers between the bent clinch and the hoof. Close the tool's handles to cut the clinch from the hoof.

Occasionally clinches will break off when a shoe is partially removed, leaving a portion of the clinch in the hoof wall.

"It's usually not a problem because the clincher head is at the front of the hoof, and that's where the hoof wall grows fastest," Sullivan says. "The farrier is sure to see it when he comes to reset the horse (reset his shoe), and he's going to cut that portion off when he trims the hoof."

Remove the Shoe To remove a shoe from a front foot after the clinches are out, reposition yourself with your back to the horse's head, lift the foot, and brace it between your knees. To remove a back shoe, stand with your back to the horse's head, lift the foot, and place it on your inner thigh.

Use either the shoe pull-offs or the nippers to grasp the outer edge of one side of the shoe at the heel. Leverage the tool's long handles downward on a diagonal toward the toe to pry the shoe loose. Be sure to apply firm, steady pressure.

Further loosen the shoe by repeating the procedure on the opposite side of the foot. Use the tool to grasp the shoe at the outer edge at the heel and draw down on the opposite diagonal to the corresponding point near the toe.

Tap loosened portions of the shoe back into place. This exposes nails so they can be removed one by one.

Continue this procedure until you've completely loosened the shoe and removed all the nails.

Firm, steady pressure and patience are necessary to avoid bruising the sole of the foot or damaging the hoof wall. Nippers can be used to trim torn hoof material, but inexperienced owners are advised to leave this job to their farriers.

An owner who suspects a nail has penetrated the sole of the horse's foot should remove the nail if the nailhead is visible. Seek veterinary care immediately.

Clean and Protect the Foot Once you've completely removed the shoe and accounted for all of the nails, use a hoof pick to remove debris from the foot. If the horse's foot is particularly sensitive or if you suspect a bruise or a nail prick, protect the foot from infection and the hoof wall from further injury by applying a manufactured emergency boot or by creating a boot from standing wrap and gauze or another protective material.

Cut several pieces of gauze into squares the size of the horse's hoof. Gauze squares should be large enough also to cover the hoof wall. Then secure the "boot" with flexible self-adherent bandaging tape.

"You can even use cotton and duct tape to cover the foot," Brockman says. "But if the farrier does not arrive immediately, remember that you're going to have to change the wrapping as the horse walks on the hoof."

The horse should remain in his stall until a farrier or veterinarian, if necessary, can examine it.

When the farrier arrives, Brockman advises owners to ask him or her to demonstrate shoe removal technique. If possible, perform the procedure yourself with his or her guidance.

"The people who know how to do it make it look easy," Brockman says, "but every owner should know how to do this before they are in a situation where they have to do it. After all, you don't wait until you have a flat tire to learn how to change a tire on your car."

Take-Home Message

All shod horses are likely at some point to partially lose a shoe. Having the right tools and knowing how to use them to remove a shoe in an emergency situation can reduce the likelihood of subsequent hoof damage and infection.

Carrot Stretches!

Courtesy of Natural Horse Magazine

With a little practice and a handful of carrots, you can get your horse to do his own chiropractic work on himself. Well, it's almost as good as chiropractic.

Many veterinarians, equine chiropractors, massage therapists, and bodyworkers encourage carrot stretches for horses. Carrots are nutritious and horses love them, and the benefits of stretching are many.

When a horse is encouraged to stretch for a carrot, he stretches his muscles and joints. He increases the circulation through the muscle tissue and frees up sticky fascia. He opens the spaces between vertebrae and loosens up other joints. All of this allows for increased flexibility and range of motion, and it feels good. Being flexible can prevent a lot of problems. Reaching and stretching to different areas of the body affect many different muscles and different areas of the spine.

There will probably be a lot of popping and cracking sounds, which are normal and nothing to be alarmed about. Slow and gentle stretches will not cause injury and will be more effective. Don't cross-tie or tie him; use a loose lead rope and a friend to hold it, if needed. At first you may want to stand the horse beside a wall for the stretches to the side so he does not move the hindquarters away. He will soon get the idea to stay put and stretch instead.

Always start out the stretches by asking for only part of a stretch. Asking for too much too soon could cause the horse to overstretch and injure himself. If he does well on a partial stretch, then go for the full stretch. Encourage your horse to stretch as far has he feels comfortable; don't force him to stretch beyond his limits. Start with easy ones and work up to the more difficult ones. Do this daily and notice how his flexibility gradually increases. One side is often more flexible than the other; this usually evens up somewhat over time.

Also increase the duration of time of the stretch : get him to hold the stretch longer and longer, for as long as 10 to 15 seconds, if possible. Show him the carrot and draw his head in the direction of the stretch, to where you want him to stretch. Then let him have the carrot. Watch your fingers!

1. Center carrot stretches:

a.Tuck toward the chest : stretches the poll, crest and neck muscles, opens the space between the base of the skull and the first vertebra (atlas)

horse chiropractic pictures of horses

b.Down between the forelegs toward girth : stretches the top line, crest, and withers; opens up the withers and thoracic vertebrae

horse chiropractic pictures of horses
2. Sideways carrot stretch:
 a.toward the barrel - warm-up stretch : stretches the neck and shoulders area

horse chiropractic pictures of horses

b.Toward the stifle - stretches the lower neck area and opens the shoulders
horse chiropractic pictures of horses

c.Toward the hip bone - stretches the lateral flexors of the neck, the shoulder, and part of the rib cage and spine; a good, thorough lateral stretch

horse chiropractic pictures of horses

 d.Toward the elbow, slowly raising it toward the withers : stretches the lower neck and point of shoulder area, and upper neck

horse chiropractic pictures of horses

 3. Poll twist : stretches the poll area. Draw his head forward and down, then with his neck remaining centered and low, place your free hand behind his ear to stabilize him. Slowly draw his head so it rotates to the side, so his cheek is parallel to ground, then draw his nose upward and give him his carrot. Note: A horse who is stiff in the poll will generally do the other sideways stretches by twisting his neck rather than his poll, thus his cheek will be parallel to the ground. This head twist exercise will increase poll flexibility so he can do the other stretches more normally and effectively.

horse chiropractic pictures of horses
Practicing these stretches in one designated area will teach your horse to be cooperative in stretching and less apt to get grabby about carrots when elsewhere. Keep plenty of carrots on hand so you can practice daily Carrot-Practics! (Say THAT 5 times in a row!)

Article and pictures courtesy of: Natural Horse Magazine

Barking Cats!

Too funny!!!!!!

Need I say more?

This pretty much says it all.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Digital Deep Flexor Tendon Article

I found this article very helpful in understanding some of what's going on with Ivan's hind feet right now. Apparently he may have developed the cross canter habit due to his heels being too low this whole time, and he has been constantly battling to stay balanced and comfortable due to his heels being dropped on the lateral side due to the way his foot loads. With a 2 degree wedge in the back, he now has enough heel on the lateral side to be more comfortable and take some of the strain off of his tendons in the hind, and this will hopefully cause his deep flexor to destress and loosen up because currently it's rather tight. This article had a lot of helpful information as to parts of the foot, function and relation to toe angle, etc. etc., and mentioned findings of small studies.

Heel Wedges: Their effects on Tendon and Ligament Strains
By Kent M. Thompson, PhD

New Feet!

Yay!!! My pony is shod all the way around in aluminums, has the right size shoe on the fronts now, the right size nails keeping them on, and had some corrective shoeing to help fix his heels in the hind :) Maybe this will help us stop cross cantering and help rebuild the lateral and medial side walls of the Go!-boy's feet! Apparently the state of his heels in the hind may have been contributing to his cross cantering by keeping his deep flexor tendon too tight, so hopefully we'll see improvement! Also, the nails used last time were WAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYY too big for his feet and left huge holes that you could see daylight through after they were pulled, but thankfully his feet had grown out enough that the old nail holes did not interfere with the new front sets. The master farrier is expensive, but 44 years of experience makes him worth it! I am so excited and hopeful that the shoes on his hinds will help us with our cross canter problem. I'm supposed to treat his deep flexor tendon with a concoction the farrier suggested to help loosen it back up, and I'm thinking about having the chiropractor out to make an adjustment to his back to see if that also helps. We'll see, but keep your fingers crossed!

Monday, June 20, 2011

Rubbing Bottles | The Chronicle of the Horse

Rubbing Bottles The Chronicle of the Horse

I thought this was a great article about some changes that could/should be introduced to the dressage scene. Hey all you dressage riders out there, what do you think? I'm totally on board with her last point. I have ALWAYS wanted to do a freestyle to some fun, funky music :)

Friday, June 17, 2011

Road trip day!

I'm so excited! I'm taking the Go!-boy up to Huntsville with me today :) I have a crapload to get done around here today, but I'll probably head up there around 1 or 2 so that I can try to be there before dark. Instead of 1.5 hours to Huntsville, I'm actually going north of Huntsville plus I generally go 10-15 mph slower in the truck with a pony behind it, so I'm guessing on possibly 3 hours??? Blah! Oh well. I am just so thrilled to be taking my boy with me anywhere! Our first long trip in my trailer since I got it back in April, and the first long trip with him at all since I brought him home from Florida! Wish us luck :)

Thursday, June 16, 2011


I really get annoyed when someone perpetuates tension when there doesn't need to be any. Like someone just wants to try to create crap and put words in your mouth that were never there, blaming YOU for stuff you never actually said or even thought of. I seriously have very little patience for this business. It makes me just want to give the world the finger for the moment and stick to my horses. At least with them, the drama passes in just 10 minutes.

Blah, sleepy.

More unpacking today, then working on homework with the Go!-boy from our lesson yesterday, and hopefully going to rearrange some stalls today. Have to get my trailer unloaded because all the stuff from the darn old house is still on the back of it. Need to take it by the trailer shop/camper place and get it serviced and ready for our weekend trip. Preparing for Ivan's and my weekend roadtrip later this afternoon, and need to replace the back left bulb on the trailer. Probably need to find out if the local Tractor Supply has the size trailer mats I need, and find out if they're cheaper than the camper place...Blah... so much to do, so sleepy, not enough hands or bodies.

The Horse: Belmont Stakes Contender Nehro to Undergo Surgery

Poor colt. I'm so glad that my boy retired with clean legs! At least it'll be a routine surgery with a good chance of full recovery within so many weeks. This is why you should not race babies before their legs are fully developed...

The Horse Belmont Stakes Contender Nehro to Undergo Surgery

Thursday, June 2, 2011

My HP Printer Wants To Break Up With Its HP Color Cartridge

So all the sudden this morning my HP printer decides it doesn't like its HP cartridge anymore and is telling me color printer cartridge not compatible. WTF? I didn't introduce you guys through, so you're not compatible? One of you wouldn't confirm the relationship and make it Facebook official? I wish my printer and color cartridge could just get along and preserve the union...

Barn Manager Blues

This whole being a barn manager thing is a lot more frustrating than I thought it was going to be. I took on a couple friends as a barn partner and a boarder, and with them came way more additional horses than our farm was set up for. What I thought was going to be two or three horses from one and then three big horses and two minis from my boarder (so like, seven or eight total?) became THIRTEEN additional heads in my pasture instead of just my two, for a total of fifteen with only two stalls and four run-in stalls. Feeding time is a little nuts, getting any help out at the farm is near impossible, and it's in the upper 90s to top it all off, so being out at the barn for as long as it takes to get fifteen horses caught and fed is miserable. If I can just get these cross-fencing plans and arena plans STARTED and not just made, it'll get easier out there. An arena means my barn partner's client horses will finally get trained and finally go home permanently, and the two that are supposed to be for sale/for rehoming will get some training on them and go to new homes as well.

The heat makes everything else more frustrating. If I could separate the herd, if the two drafts and one filly/suckling would quit trying to bust through every butt chain or gate I have out there, if if if if if... things would be a little less hectic. I'm just not thrilled that I gave an inch and a mile was taken before we were set up, even though I thought I made it clear that I didn't want us overloaded before we were better set up to handle that many horses. Grrr.... too late now...